Old post: Nepali Stroll

So this is about three months old (or more!), but anyway in Kathmandu valley I walked from the village of Nagarkot to the village of Dhulikhel. Both are famous for their views of the Himalayas and generally being pretty Mountain places: Nagarkot is on the typical 'lonely planet' trail and consists mostly of hotels, and Dhulikhel is more of an ordinary village - I really liked both. The walk between the two took me about six hours, but I wasn't exactly hurrying, and I was approached by several well-meaning Nepalis telling me that they would take a taxi, given the choice.

Nagarkot locals

Baby with money

Pierre asked me if he could please stay here forever, and I said no

In the restaurant of the "Hotel at the End of the Universe" (recommended). 

Where I retired to after several hours of Nepali folk singing around a fire

The walk

Misty prayer flags

At one comical moment on the walk, I felt myself to be lost in a maze of paths going through a very pretty woods when I came across the place pictured above. At the far end is that small house and I yelled out "Hello! Namaste!" and an old man who looked like a dream-vision of a hermit Indian guru (long beard, coloured rags as clothes) yelled NAMASTE back and kept on keeping on. I walked towards him, he didn't walk towards me and I had to climb all the way up to his house to ask him for directions to Dhulikhel. His directions were simple, he waved his arm vaguely in the direction of one of the paths and said "go!" beaming at me. So I did.

In Nagarkot a thick mist had obscured the supposedly splendid view of the mountains, but I didn't mind since it made the whole place feel spooky - and anyway, I sat up half the night with six Nepali mountain men, between about 17 and 85 in age, teaching me beautiful Nepali folk songs, playing guitar and feeding me freshly roasted potato slices off the fire. All in all, one of the truly most magical nights I could care to name.

NB: I don't think playing guitar at night or around a fire inherently makes for a magical night; the guitar needs to be played well and the company has to be interesting. Take note, American hippies.

In any case, I got to hang out with those badboys the Himalayas from the comfort of my bedroom in Dhulikhel, where the clouds cleared and I woke to find myself surrounded by this:

The mountains surrounding my room in Dhulikhel

Day trip: Bungamati

Approximately ten years ago, when I was eighteen, my big plan in life was to volunteer in a village in Nepal as an English teacher. Right before I was due to leave, the civil conflict between the Maoists and the government intensified and I asked my dear mother "how do you feel about me going to Nepal with all this happening?"

My mom gave a typically diplomatic answer, saying she would support me whatever I did, but that "honestly, I'd prefer if you didn't." That was enough for me and I called the whole thing off. Years later, I was thinking about interning in Nepal for the UNHCR, but ended up calling that off because I got a more exciting offer from a grassroots Jewish peace group in Israel/ Palestine. Suffice to say, Nepal and I are like ships in the night.  

Now, much to my bemusement, I find myself in Nepal not for a job or a holiday, but for a visa run. All the same, getting the Indian tourist visa I am hoping for takes at least a week, so I'm getting a bit of exploring in. I've been staying at a home stay in Patan (which I much prefer to Thamel, in terms of a place to stay) and looking around Kathmandu during my days. I must be getting old, because I find the cold, dust and noise of Kathmandu quite a lot to take, and I decided to take a day off yesterday by heading out to nearby Bungamati, a 'medieval' style agricultural village. 

I planted myself by that tree above and enjoyed the pollution-free air and green views. And the people passing by. 

The group of teenage scamps above ended up being my tour-guides for the afternoon, teaching me about the hindu religion in general and local interpretations of the surrounding hills and rivers. They also ended up admitting to me that they had spent the day drinking alcohol and smoking cigarettes, for which I gave them a disapproving look and a health lecture. One of them mock-pick-pocketed me (by attempting, and failing, to untie my backpack), but the others all yelled at him and apologised to me profusely. All in all, an adorable group of rogues and I shook each of their hands before they left me to my own devices. 

The cuties below saw me with a camera and demanded a picture. Their mother insisted they say "thank you" to me, while I said dhanyabad to them.  

Spot the Animal!

Prayer bell

Bungamati